Box turtles are the most common reptile pet in the United States. With proper care they are long-lived, with life spans of 30 to 40 years and perhaps much longer. The longevity record in captivity is 26.5 years. Unfortunately, they are among the most neglected reptiles in captivity, because most people just do not know how to care for them properly.
Several subspecies of box turtles are common in the pet trade in the United States. Six subspecies are known and differentiation occasionally can be difficult because of intergradation. Adult box turtles are opportunistic omnivores; youngsters are primarily carnivorous. Adults eat a wide variety of foods
including land snails, beetles, sowbugs, millipedes, slugs, earthworms, spiders, carrion, small mammals, birds, crayfish, frogs, salamanders, lizards, snakes, smaller turtles, and plant material such as mushrooms, strawberries, raspberries, mulberries, and tomatoes.
Reproduction
In most species, females lay two to eight (normally four to six) eggs, from May through July but often fail to lay in captivity. Multiple clutches are possible. Females can store sperm and lay fertile eggs for up to 4 years after fertilization. Eggs hatch in 2 to 3 months if fertile.
Housing
Twenty-gallon or larger aquarium work well for box turtles. The bigger the cage, the better. The bottom of the cage can be filled with newspaper, indoor-outdoor carpeting, straw, hay, medium to large wood chips mixed with peat moss, or alfalfa pellets. The latter four substrates are good because box turtles like to burrow, but the substrates must be completely changed every few months. Feces need to be scooped out on a weekly basis. Gravel, sand, kitty litter, crushed walnut shells, or potting soil should be avoided, because if ingested, intestinal blockage can occur, and they are difficult to keep clean. A hide box that the turtle can get under and out of sight is important. Many turtles prefer to sleep in them.
Temperature
The cage temperature should not be colder than 21°C (70°F) at night and gradually warm to 27 to 30°C (80 to 86°F) during the day. During the day a 75- to 100 watt incandescent bulb with reflector can provide a warm basking area at one end of the cage. Lights should be turned off during the night; consequently, supplemental heat from heat tapes or heating pads should be provided under one-half of the cage.
Water
An easy-to-clean shallow water dish, large enough for the turtle to get into and out of easily, should always be available. Water depth should be no deeper than the turtle's chin when its head is partially retracted. Box turtles cannot swim and will drown if submerged. Turtles prefer to defecate in their water bowl, so it should be cleaned several times per week. Constipation often results if the turtle is not allowed to soak at least three times a week.
Outdoor Housing
In warmer climates, box turtles do well outdoors in a back yard or fenced enclosure. The enclosure should have some shade so that the turtles can escape the hot sun when needed. Since box turtles are accomplished burrowers, seal under fence borders with bricks or rocks or bury the fencing 8 to 12 inches. They also can climb over fencing less than 12 inches high. Turtles should be brought indoors whenever the temperature drops into the low 60s.
Hibernation
In the wild, box turtles are active from March until October or November, but this vanes depending on locale and subspecies; then they generally hibernate for the winter. In captivity, some box turtles skip this phase, especially if the conditions stay warm and the photoperiod persists at 12 to 14 hours of light per day. Others, however, will stop eating in the early fall regardless of environmental conditions. Hibernation is recommended for healthy specimens. Sick, convalescing, or underweight turtles should not be hibernated.
In early October, or as soon as the turtle's appetite noticeably decreases in early fall, withhold food (but not water) for 1 to 2 weeks, but keep the cage temperature between 21 to 27°C (70 to 80°F). This gives the turtle time to clear its gastrointestinal tract of any remaining food. This is important because once hibernation starts, the turtle's metabolism, as well as digestion, slows down. Remove external heat sources and allow the turtle to acclimatize to room temperature (16 to 21°C [60 to 70°F]). After a week at room temperature, the turtle should be ready to enter the hibernaculum.
For indoor hibernation, select a dimly lit, draft-free, dry area that can be kept between 7 to 16°C (45 to 60°F) for the winter, such as basement, garage, back porch, crawl space, wine cellar, or north- or east-facing closet or window.
Temperatures should stay between 10 to 16°C (50 to 60°F) with an occasional drop to 7°C (45°F). Persistent temperatures above 16°C (60°F) are too high for hibernation and will increase the turtle's metabolism so that it will slowly starve. Prolonged temperatures below 7°C (45°F) are too cold and can be detrimental. Although the turtle in hibernation is freeze-tolerant, temperatures near or below freezing should be avoided. A hibernaculum can be a large box, crate, cooler, or aquarium with a foot of slightly humid peat-based potting soil and a 3- to 6-inch top layer of shredded newspaper, dried leaves, or hay. Do not use leaves containing pesticides as the pesticides could overwhelm the turtle during the long winter. The turtle will burrow into the soil and should remain inactive. The soil should be humid enough, but not wet, so that the turtle does not dehydrate. The hibernaculum should not be placed directly on cold cement. Every 2 or 3 weeks soak the turtle in lukewarm water for 2 hours.
Outdoor hibernation is much more hazardous. An area sheltered from the wind with 2 to 3 feet of loosened soil and good drainage, not prone to flooding, should be selected. The turtle will burrow into the soil and attempt to stay below the frost line. Spread a foot of loose leaves or hay over the soil. Alternatively, loose soil near a foundation can work well. The turtle should emerge 5 to 6 months later in the spring.
Feeding
Diet is the most difficult area of box turtle care. The majority of medical problems of captive box turtles are directly related to inadequate diet. Box turtles are more carnivorous than most people realize,and ornate box turtles are more insectivorous than the Eastern subspecies. Feed should be varied as much as possible to ensure a healthy, balanced diet.
Acclimatization
Most box turtles are wild caught and acclimatization to captivity can be difficult, although some do well from the start. If healthy, new arrivals should be set up in as large a cage as possible or placed outdoors if the weather is favorable. Leave them alone until they start feeding well, which can take a few days to weeks or even months. Box turtles are naturally secretive animals, and frequent handling or watching will deter them from settling into captivity. Make sure they have a hide box. In the wild, box turtles are most active in early morning or late afternoon when it is not too hot, so these are good times to try feeding. Rainstorms often increase activity; thus, spraying their cage may stimulate appetite.
BOX TURTLE DIET
Adults should be fed 3 or more times per week in the morning and juveniles fed daily. Juveniles tend to be much more carnivorous than adults. For every feeding, dust food with calcium lactate, carbonate, or gluconate.
Every 1 to 2 weeks dust food with multivitamins (if vitamin-fortified foods are not available). Limit vitamin D-fortified foods to less than 5% of the total diet.( May also inject live foods with liquid vitamins for reptiles)
50% Animal or High-Protein Foods.
Earthworms, crickets, grasshoppers, slugs, waxworms, mealworms, silk moth larvae, other insects, adult maintenance dry dog food, trout chow, whole skinned chopped mice, baby mice (pinkies), goldfish, pelleted parrot diets, monkey chow biscuits, and sardines.
50% Plants (25% Fruits and 75% Vegetables)
25% Fruits. Tomatoes, strawberries, raspberries, apples, grapes, cherries, peaches, pears, plums, oranges, nectarines, figs, melons (remove seeds), bananas, mangos, and grapefruit.
75% Vegetables. Dark leafy greens (mustard, collard, radish and turnip greens or tops, kale, cabbage, dandelions [leaves, stems and flowers], bok-choy Ipak-choil, broccoli, rape), squashes, sweet potatoes, carrots, thawed frozen mixed vegetables (peas, corn, carrots, green beans, lima beans); alfalfa, radish, clover, or bean sprouts; soaked alfalfa pellets, mushrooms, bell peppers, broccoli, green beans, peas in the pod, okra and prickly pear (Opuntia spp) cactus pads (shave off spines). Feed less of spinach, Swiss chard, beet greens, red leaf or romaine lettuce.