Getting Kittens Started
Cats and kittens are not small dogs, so the idea of "litter training"
cats the same way you housebreak a dog doesn't work. Kittens will naturally
seek a place to dig but you can help them be consistent. The first thing to
do with kittens is to provide accessible litter boxes. Kittens don't have
the "control" of mature cats and need to have litter boxes near
by to avoid traveling too far. After feeding time, it is a good idea to place
your kitten into a litter box. Kittens have a natural elimination reflex after
eating. By putting them in a litter box, they associate the box with the reflex.
You should also create easy access for kittens by placing a step up until
they are large enough to be able get in the box easily by themselves. The
right litter is also essential for kittens. Cat Attract is ideal because
it has the right texture for their paws and a
natural chlorophyll scent cats like. Avoid using perfumed or cedar-based litters
with
your new kitten, as many kittens find them aversive.
Understanding The Problem Cat
A problem cat is one who chooses not to use its litter box. There are three
likely causes: medical ailments, territorial marking, or behavioral issues.
Knowing which category your cat fits in is only a first step toward solving
the problem. Cats are creatures of habit, and will repeatedly soil the same
spot. In other words, a litter box problem that began with a urinary tract
infection may continue due to habit long after the infection has been cured.
Whatever the cause, it is important to treat problem cats with both behavior
modification and stress reduction techniques.
Medical Concerns
Only one sixth of cats with urinary problems go outside the litter box. However,
blood in the urine, increased frequency of urination, small, hard stools,
and loose movements are signs of medical trouble that could lead to litter
box problems. See your veterinarian to help evaluate your cat's health, and
recommend treatment if there is a medical problem.
Territorial Marking
Spraying, or marking territory with urine, is a natural behavior for both
male and female cats. It is a form of communication, and should not be confused
with ordinary urination outside of the litter box. Spraying usually involves
just a small amount of urine and occurs on walls, furniture, the floor, or,
occasionally, the owner's clothes or bedding. A cat that is marking on the
floor will leave just a small amount of urine. It will not turn around to
sniff and paw at the area, as is the case in urination. It will just walk
away after marking. A trail of urine on the floor means the cat was standing
to spray and not squatting to urinate.
You can help diminish your cat's need to spray by creating "friendly
zones" by using your cat's own pheromones or Feliway, a
synthetic feline pheromone available in many stores. To use your cat's pheromones,
rub a soft cloth between your cat's eye and ear. Wipe the cloth on the soiled
area repeatedly over several weeks. This tells your cat this is a "friendly
zone" and diminishes its need to mark the area. Follow the product's
directions, spraying it on the soiled areas several times for a month. Also,
use it on high-risk areas like the edge of a sofa or on walls. Place scratching
posts in areas that are marked so the cat will mark with the scent off its
pads and not with urine.
Cats may also mark their territory with feces. Signs of this type of territorial
marking include defecation in a very conspicuous and unusual spot, such as
on top of a table.
Your veterinarian can also help you by prescribing various drugs to reduce
marking. You may want your cat to have a complete physical examination to
rule out any other problems.
Behavioral Problems
This category includes everything from box rejection (a cat who does not care
for your choice of litter) and location preference (the cat who uses an out
of the way closet instead of its box) to stress-induced soiling (often related
to changes or upheaval in the household). Since all litter box problems are
in some sense behavioral, these techniques make a good starting point for
solving any problem. Be attentive, flexible, and above all, patient. With
your help, your cat can, and will, learn to "think inside the box."
Special Concerns
The Real Tough Case
For the cat that consistently soils in the same spot, try placing a litter
box with Cat Attract'" in the "trouble spot" for a period of
10 to 14 days. After this initial phase, move the box an
inch or two each day toward the place where you would like it to be. This
method takes a lot of time and patience, but it may be an answer.
Alternatively, confine your cat for at least one month to a room that has
not been soiled in the past. Provide a litter box filled with Cat Attract
along with food, water, and an elevated hideaway. After a month, the cat should
be consistently using its litter box and you can expand its territory to include
two rooms, then three, and so on. Over time, most cats respond to this treatment,
and can eventually be trusted to roam the house. Some, however, require a
more rigorous treatment: Confine the cat to a large cage or pet carrier. Cover
the entire floor of the carrier with litter. Create a small bed and a spot
for water and food at one end. This will force your cat to use the litter.
Over time, reduce the amount of litter in the carrier, so that the litter
only covers a portion of the floor. Once the cat is consistently using only
the litter-covered area in the carrier, bring it out into the room and proceed
with the one-room confinement treatment outlined above.
Whichever treatment you choose, you are most likely to succeed using Dr. Elsey's
Cat Attract'". Cat Attract's unique combination of scoopable litter and
natural herbs will help your cat overcome resistance to other litters that
may discourage use.
Senior Cats
Senior cats may need special help getting in and out of the box. Create a
ramp to make it easier for them. For these cats, set up extra boxes on every
level of your house.
Bringing an Outdoor Cat Indoors
A cat that is used to prowling outdoors may need help adjusting to life inside.
Try mixing a few spoonsful of dirt from its "favorite place" in
with Cat Attract. Your cat will be attracted to the box by the familiar
scent. Here again, the use of Feliway will help create a sense of familiarity
for your cat and reduce stress.
Welcoming a New Cat
The addition of a new cat may cause feline stress and litter box problems.
Make introductions slowly, confining the new cat to its own room for a couple
of weeks. Use Feliway in both rooms to create a calming effect for both cats.
Sniffing and swatting under the door will acquaint the cats. When they finally
meet face to face, you should expect tension or conflict for a couple of weeks
before they settle down.
To speed the process, try wiping each cat's fur with a separate towel daily.
Then place each cat's food dish on top of the other cat's towel. They will
associate each other's scent with the
positive experience of being fed, and grow tolerant of each other quickly.
Make sure each cat has easy access to its own safe, elevated hideaway, and
give each of them equal love and attention. Of course, remember if you have
multiple cats, have one more litter box than you have cats in your household.
Moving to a New Home
Cats can be traumatized during a move to a new environment. To prevent spraying
and other stress-related litter box problems, help your cat feel secure in
its new home. Confine it to one room for a couple of weeks, so that it car
acclimate to the new area without becoming overwhelmed. Equip the room with
all of the comforts of home... a large litter box, a bed, food, water, and
an elevated hiding spot. Be sure to spend extra time every day playing with
your cat during this difficult time. You might also "prep" the new
home with Feliway adding friendly pheromones to the new environment.
Feliway is excellent for calming cats in stressful situations such as moving
in or transporting to a veterinarian.
Because You Love Ydur Cat...
1. Neuter your cat. Neutering minimizes a variety of behavioral problems for
both male and female cats, and eliminates the risk of unwanted kittens. It
is the right thing to do.
2. Take your cat to your veterinarian for regular shots and check-ups. Even
a healthy adult cat should make a visit once a year. Kittens and older cats
require more frequent check-ups.
3. Your veterinarian may recommend that you feed your house-soiling kitty
canned food. Your cat will consume twice the amount of total water in a day
eating canned food than when eating dry cat food and it may be beneficial
for better urinary tract health. Make the switch slowly, starting with just
a tablespoon morning and evening and then gradually increase the amount over
a two-week period. This will give your kitty's digestive system time to adjust.
4. Protect your cat from household hazards.
Avoid allowing cats to play with string or yarn. Cats have tiny barbs
on their tongues that make it difficult for them to spit out a piece of string.
If swallowed, the string may cause intestinal problems.
Use caution with reclining chairs and garage doors; either of these
can easily crush and kill a cat.
Discourage play with electrical cords.
Many houseplants, such as Easter lilies, are toxic to cats. To keep your cat
away, spray the plant with water, and sprinkle its leaves with powdered ginger.
Some household products, like Tylenol, Advil, and antifreeze, are harmful
to cats. A lethal dose of antifreeze can come from a cat walking through a
spill and licking its paws.