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GREEN IGUANA ------------------------- |
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Herbivores Green iguanas are herbivorous and in the wild feed almost entirely on leaves of trees and vines. They do not have gizzard-like stomachs and do not require grit or gravel to help them digest their food. In fact, intestinal obstruction with gravel is a common problem when iguanas are kept on this substrate. Likewise, they are not insectivorous as juveniles that gradually transform to herbivores as they mature; they are herbivorous from birth (although an insect occasionally might be taken opportunistically. This misinformation was in the literature in the 1960s and has been perpetuated in many poorly researched pet store "how to", books. They do utilize microbial fermentation in the hindgut to digest highfiber diets as efficiently as ruminants. However, this requires high environmental temperatures. Newly hatched iguanas lack the microbes necessary for hindgut fermentation and obtain them in the wild by eating the feces from adult iguanas. It is unknown whether the oral inoculation of captive hatched iguanas with the parasite free feces of adult captive iguanas would be beneficial for digestion, but the captive diet is relatively more digestible than the leaves that make up the bulk of their diet in the wild. However, this practice can be a useful part of the treatment of diarrhea in this species. Recommended Diet For Captive Iguanas All plant material is washed, chopped (a food processor is recommended), and thoroughly mixed. This will ensure a balanced diet in that all food items will be eaten, rather than just the favorite or tasty ones. Prepare enough for 4 to 7 days, store in the refrigerator between feedings, and serve at room temperature or slightly warmer. Hatchlings up to 14 inches in length: Juveniles up to 2.5 years or 3 feet in length: Adults over 2.5 years and 3 feet in length: Ingredients: EACH MEAL contains ingredients from ALL FIVE of the following categories: 1. Calcium-rich vegetables: 30-40% of the diet, two or more items per feeding—turnip greens, mustard greens, beet greens, kale, collards, bok choy, Swiss chard, dandelions, parsley, romaine, escarole, spinach, alfalfa pellets 2. Other vegetables: 30-40% of the diet, a variety weekly—frozen mixed vegetables, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, bell pepper, broccoli, peas, beans, okra, grated carrot, sprouts. 3. Grain/fiber: optional, up to 20% of the diet—whole grain breads and natural bran cereals 4. Fruits: no more than 15% of the diet—figs, papaya, melon, apple, peaches, plums, strawberries, tomatoes, banana (with skin), grapes, kiwi 5. Vitamin/mineral supplementation: supplementation is advised, because vitamin and mineral deficiencies are common in iguanas. However, calcium and the fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, and K) can be oversupplemented as well as undersupplemented. To avoid oversupplementation, natural sources from a varied diet are the best choice, with moderate vitamin/mineral use to balance the diet. To date there are no documented studies on specific requirements for any lizard species. Minerals: Use powdered calcium carbonate (cuttlebone shavings is one source) or calcium gluconate. Mix 1 part vitamin and 2 parts mineral. Hatchlings and juveniles: 1 small pinch per feeding Adults: 1 full pinch per 2 Ibs body weight twice a week Adult females: 1 full pinch per feeding from December until egg laying Groups: l/8 tsp. vitamin/mineral mix per 3 Ibs iguana per week A comment about animal protein sources: This is a highly controversial area. Traditionally, animal protein sources have been recommended in the diets of iguanas. However, in the wild they are folivores, a type of vegetarian that eats primarily leaves. Some iguana books falsely claim that iguanas eat insects until they mature, then switch to a vegetarian diet as adults. This is not the case. They are vegetarians from birth even though they might occasionally accept unnatural foods, such as crickets or even mice in captivity. Even though animal protein sources traditionally have been recommended for iguanas, their necessity has not been scientifically documented. Protein should be supplied as a plant based source. Protein sources to avoid : Little nutritional value : crickets, mealworms, king mealworms Too much protein and/or calcium: small pre-killed mice, primate diets, trout chow ,dog and cat food. A comment about canned, frozen, and other commercial iguana diets: The advantage of these products is that they are easier to use than preparing a balanced salad several times a week. The disadvantage is that in spite of claims that the commercial diets are complete and balanced, they I may not be so. The exact nutritional requirements for green iguanas have never been scientifically determined. Young, rapidly growing iguanas have dietary requirements that differ from those of mature adults, as is the case in puppies and mature dogs. Commercial iguana diets do not address this difference. The ingredients are items to which an iguana in the jungle would never have access. Likewise, symptoms from eating an unbalanced diet may take years to develop. Commercial iguana diets are unproven. They may have a role in iguana nutrition but should only be part of the diet until more is known. Modified from de Vosjoli P The Green Izuana Manual Lakeside, CA, Advanced Vivarium Systems, 1992.
Housing Many reptiles are escape artists and can squeeze through narrow cracks. Therefore, cages should be secure with tightly fitting lids. The sides should be smooth to prevent rostral abrasions. Wire cages should not be used, since they don't retain heat and can result in foot and rostral trauma. Cages should be simple in design to facilitate cleaning. Cages made of wood must be sealed with polyurethane or a similar waterproofing agent and joints caulked to allow cleaning and disinfection. Fresh polyurethane must be allowed to cure for several days, and the cage thoroughly aired out prior to placing a reptile in the cage or toxicity may result. Lizards require large cages to accommodate their active behavior. This is especially important for chameleons which need cages varying from 1 X 0.5 x 0.6 m high for dwarf species to 1.3 x 0.6 X 1.3 m high for large species. Dry climbing branches of appropriate diameter may be used to make a 3-dimensional pathway for arboreal species. Lizards allowed to roam free in the house are subject to chilling (lack of access to a heat source, too much access to cold outside walls and windows, and drafty floors), trauma (stepped on, closed in doors, falling from high shelves or curtains, and attack by dogs and cats), and escape. Substrate Many different types of substrate are available. Each has advantages and disadvantages. Selection can be tailored to the particular needs of the client and species being housed. An ideal substrate is one that is inexpensive, aesthetically pleasing, easily cleaned, absorbent, and digestible if swallowed. Substrate can be flat newspaper, indoor/outdoor carpet, large, ornamental bark chips, alfalfa pellets, or cyprus mulch .Cedar shavings contain aromatic resins that may be toxic to small reptiles. Other substrates to avoid include gravel, crushed corn cob, kitty litter, miscellaneous wood shavings, fine bark chips, and, except for desert species, sand. Particulate substrates are difficult to clean, so many keepers fail to clean the cages thoroughly or with regular frequency. These substrates also retain moisture from animal waste and spilled water, which in the warm environment of the cage can promote microbial growth and infections in the animal. Reptiles may ingest these substrates resulting in gastrointestinal impaction . Species which burrow are the exception and must be provided with sand or other suitable material in which to burrow. Several new commercial animal bedding products made from wood pulp and recycled paper work well for larger lizards. They are more absorbent and less dusty than alfalfa pellets, can be changed less frequently, are more or less digestible if swallowed, and are compostable. Ultraviolet Light Requirements The full spectrum of natural light, specifically the ultraviolet wavelengths (UV), is important for vitamin D synthesis and calcium metabolism in lizards.There are three bands of UV: WV-A, W-B, and W-C. UV-A (nearwave, 320 to 400 nm) produces beneficial behavioral and psychologic effects but does not activate vitamin D precursors in the skin. UV-B (middlewave, 290 to 320 nm) is necessary for vitamin D activation. UV-C (farwave, below 290 nm) is not important in reptile husbandry. Reptiles benefit from both UV-A and UV-B light. Traditional UV sources for reptiles include the following, listed by amount of W-B emitted in decreasing order: unfiltered sunlight, sun lamps (W-B sun lamp or FS-type fluorescent sun lamp, various manufacturers), black light (BL) fluorescent tubes (General Electric Co., Nela Park, Cleveland, OH), and Vita-lite fluorescent tubes (Duro-lite Lamp, Lyndburst, NJ) among others New UV light sources are becoming available on a regular basis, and each should be evaluated based on the wavelengths of UV produced. Wide-spectrum plant lights and black light blue (BLB) tubes used to fluoresce psychedelic posters are of no value to reptiles. Artificial UV sources should be within 18 to 24 inches of the reptile and not filtered by glass or plastic. Sun lamps should be used for 10 to 20 minutes a day, and caution taken to avoid human exposure or eye contact with the UV rays.The other artificial UV sources may be left on during normal daylight hours. The problem is that the specific requirements for UV light, specifically what wavelengths and for how long, are not known. Artificial light sources cannot replace natural sunlight, and those reptiles with access to the sun in outdoor enclosures, even on a screen porch or patio, invariably have better growth, health, behavior, reproduction, and longevity than those kept indoors. Window glass filters out UV rays. Sunshine through a window is of no value. Placing a glass cage in direct sun risks heat stroke for the inhabitants. Clients should be warned that even a few minutes of exposure to unfiltered sunlight may change a lizard's behavior. Slow, deliberate lizards often become lightning quick and caution must be taken to avoid sudden and unexpected attempts to escape. Also, tame, docile lizards may become aggressive. Monitors and Gila monsters that were otherwise tame have been known to attack and chase their owners after brief exposure to sunlight. These changes reverse readily when the lizard is brought back inside. Visual Security Visual security is beneficial, especially for nervous species. A hide box, which is a place where the caged reptile can retreat for some privacy, should be provided for all cage inhabitants. Hide boxes can be made from a cardboard box, pieces of terra cotta pottery, cardboard tubes, or the saucer that fits under a flower pot. These are inverted and a hole is cut through the top or side to allow access. Arboreal species should be provided with real or artificial plants in which to hide Many animals refuse to eat and may become stressed if they lack a secure hiding place. If the lizard doesn't use it, something is wrong with the hiding place, and a different size or shape should be tried.
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